Pacific's best-kept secret: Beachfront bliss for less than $100 a night

Travel News from Stuff - 09-01-2023 stuff.co.nz

Imagine beachfront accommodation just a short flight from New Zealand for less than $100 a night, including meals. As the cost of skyrockets, those prices seem like a nostalgic memory rather than a holiday option for 2023.

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But that's the magical thing about – it's almost frozen in time. There are no big chain resorts, casinos or giant shopping malls. Instead, you'll find empty golden beaches, sprawling rainforests, waterfalls, and a traditional way of life that is fiercely guarded. The 3h45min flight from feels more like a 50-year journey back in time.

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Samoa is a little different to most – strict ownership rules mean many of the island's accommodation options are still run by families. And they love their traditional offering: beach fales.

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These are the hidden gems of the South Pacific, simply because few people know about them.

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A 'fale' is the Samoan word for house, so it essentially means 'beach house'.

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But this isn't the Hamptons; these beach fales adopt a traditional design and are generally regarded as two-star. They are essentially open-air huts on stilts; it's a little like Samoa's version of camping.

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The best beach fales in Upolu – which is the country's main island – are on the southern coast where the best beaches are found. My favourite locations are Matareva Beach Fales, and those found around the Lalomanu Beach area.

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Alternatively, those seeking a more rugged but beautiful adventure can head to the country's second island, Savai'i. Ideally, you need to rent a car and take a car ferry to get there, but you'll be rewarded with an island that is one of the Pacific’s true treasures.

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On Savai'i, fales are spread around the island - some overwater, others on rocks and a few on beaches. The best tip is not to assume all are on the beach - double-check what you're getting.

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The first thing to know is you won't need air conditioning – the sea breeze is magical. But you might have a few other questions, like what about rain? And mosquitos?

The roofs are usually watertight, and you'll have tarpaulins or woven mats that can be rolled down the sides in the event of rain.

You'll be provided with a mattress, sheets, pillow and mosquito net - ensuring a relaxing night's sleep.

Falling asleep to the waves, with a gentle sea breeze on the skin is bliss. If you're caught in a tropical storm, rain on the room is also a magical experience.

It’s important to point out that bathrooms and showers are shared. At night, they require you to head down the steps of your fale and walk a short distance – something that won’t be ideal for everyone.

If shared bathrooms and open-air living aren't for you, there are more advanced fales with walls and ensuite bathrooms that still provide excellent value for money.

These are often more like little villas on stilts and provide a motel-like experience, but still at a great price.

Most rates include dinner and breakfast, which is pretty remarkable for less than $100 for two people.

The food is basic with options like fresh fish, vegetables, rice and noodles – but it's hearty and delicious. You'll be sitting in a communal area where you can mingle with other guests.

Prices generally start at WS$70 per person, around NZ$41. That usually includes breakfast and dinner. You can get even cheaper options that don't include food.

This is one of the challenges – you're often dealing with local families who don't have their own websites. If they do, they can be basic and a little confusing to navigate.

The best place to start is the , which has an entire section dedicated to beach fales. It has 18 properties listed and contact details for them all.

A few are bookable online, but most involve the good old-fashioned way of emailing them and waiting to hear back. It’s a little pre-holiday introduction to ‘island time’. A few of them are also available on the large booking platforms.

If you’re staying on the main island, there are a few things not to be missed.

Upolu is famous for the To Sua Ocean Trench. Samoa was created from substantial volcanic eruptions over the past 2 million years, and an ancient lava tube has helped create the trench, one of the most photographed swimming holes in the Pacific.

Another lesser-known attraction is the O Le Pupu-Pu’e Lava Coast. This is a magnificent hour-long walk along a craggy cliff-lined ledge.

During the trip, you'll see rock formations that have been pounded by waves over millions of years to create "lava islands" - complete with dramatic arches rising from the sea.

If you've always dreamed of seeing turtles, don't miss your chance while in Samoa.

The easiest way to spot them is by taking a trip with Manoa Tours, which operates from the Coconuts Beach Club resort on the south coast (you don't need to stay there, bookings are open to anyone).

You'll head out on a small boat and be gently guided right next to them for photos. From there, you'll motor to a reef to go snorkelling.

Savai'i has an even slower pace than Samoa's main island and is ideal for those who love getting off the beaten path when travelling.

Its most famous attraction is the Alofaaga Blowholes. These were formed from an old lava flow, and when there's a big ocean swell, the water can shoot up 30 metres into the air with explosive force. Locals even create a 'coconut canon' by dropping one in as it blows.

The jungle waterfall and swimming hole at Afu Aau is unmissable – if you do just one thing on the island, make sure it’s a visit here to enjoy the magically blue waters.

You can also explore the Saleaula Lava Field, which was created by a devastating eruption in the early 1900s that created a 100sqkm lava field.

You can even head up to the volcano responsible for the destruction. The trip to Mount Matavanu is wild; you'll need a 4WD as the terrain is very bumpy. If you're not a confident driver, it's best to ask your resort if tours are running - or if you can pay a local to take you up.

Near the summit, you'll meet the volcano's gatekeeper known as 'Da Craterman'. The bearded, lavalava-clad jungle man lives in a shack near the peak and collects a small fee for accessing the mountain, which is distributed to the local village. Meeting him is worth the trip alone.

Air New Zealand is the only airline flying to Samoa from New Zealand. Its flights land on the main island of Upolu. See:

To get to Savai'i, you'll then need to catch a ferry. This takes 90-minutes and costs WS$10 (NZ$6) one-way for passengers or WS$80 ($47) one-way for a car. See:

A list of beach fales can be found at:

Took book a turtle tour, visit:

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