Newport, Rhode Island: The summer resort town being called 'the new Hamptons'

Travel News from Stuff - 16-01-2023 stuff.co.nz

The crowd starts moving in the direction of a classic car positioned right by the water.

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“Jay Leno is here,” someone blurts.

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I’m at the residence of an American billionaire tobacco heiress wandering between priceless Cadillacs, Ferraris and Porches, and I couldn’t be in a better position for celebrity spotting.

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I could go and catch a glimpse of the television personality, perhaps build up the courage to ask for a selfie, but the bar is slinging free cocktails, there is fresh Napoletana pizza by the slice, clam chowder by the pottle, and complimentary Lamborghini hats.

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Luxury garden party the Gathering at Rough Point is a typical scene in Newport, Rhode Island, and one which you can pay to attend and temporarily live like the one percent who call this place home.

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Once used as a summer resort by the world's wealthiest families, this town in North America’s smallest state is now plugged as the ‘new Hamptons’, luring the mega-wealthy and celebrities who are looking for a more personal and private lifestyle on some of the country’s most exclusive real estate.

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Do they know about the Cliff Walk sitting right out the front of their grand properties? It’s literally one of the top tourism suggestions when entering ‘Newport’ into Google.

Clinging to the rugged Atlantic coastline with views into Narragansett Bay, the five-kilometre walk is one of the most popular ways for visitors to see the famous historic Gilded Age mansions of Rhode Island.

On this wet October day the conditions are too miserable to wander down the boardwalk or scramble along the rocks holding chain link to see how the other half live. But luckily, there are several ways for a snoop.

We pile into a car to tour the privately owned mansions. Turning down the scenic Ocean Drive (Ten Mile Drive), we pass historic sites of the Fort Adams defence post and Newport Country Club, the location of the forerunner of the US Open. Further, beaches are blocked by private clubs where only the elite can be invited to become a member and access the sand, saltwater-fed swimming pools and ice cream parlours.

As we roll along a gooseneck connecting two peninsulas, our driver Mike points to Leno’s Louis XIV-inspired rubble and slate chateau. The comedian reportedly coughed up US$13.5 million for the 15,000-square-foot mansion.

Elsewhere on the trail there is a property owned by the Campbell Soup heiress, another with chimneys designed like Worcestershire sauce bottles, and the Victorian Hammersmith Farm where Jackie Kennedy grew up. None of the massive dwellings can compete with The Breakers.

Sitting on Ochre Point, this 70-room, four-storey limestone palazzo was once the summer cottage of the wealthy Vanderbilt family, whose history has narrative points like a hit television series: tragedy, scandal, wealth and excess. HBO show The Gilded Age is said to be based on the family of philanthropists and socialites.

The manicured grounds and mansion are of an imperial scale. We walk through the ornate iron gates emblazoned with the Vanderbilt crest and then right into the Renaissance-style building. The grand entrance inspired by the 16th-century palaces of Genoa and Turin rises two storeys with an interior built from marble and bronze. Look up and you’ll see a rococo painted fresco. It feels criminal to traipse right through in smudged sneakers.

Today, the house is designated a National Historic Landmark and is one of around a dozen mansions open for visitor tourism experiences. You can walk around the grounds of some, or if your wallet size allows, rent one for between US$10,000-30,000 (NZ$15,000-47,000) per week.

The house perched atop a small, rocky island in the middle of Newport Harbor is the most unique. Visitors need to organise their own water transport and have at least $10,000 handy to stay at the 23-room Clingstone.

Or, like me, you can take a ride on the Coastal Queen and imagine what it would be like to stay at the architectural marvel designed to withstand hurricane-force winds.

Cruising out into the harbour and lower Narragansett Bay, commentary points to the most photographed lighthouse in Rhode Island, centuries-old manor houses, the boat house used as inspiration in Baz Luhrmann's adaptation of The Great Gatsby and the modest summer home of James Taylor.

Newport’s history is tied to the sea. The trading ships are gone; instead from the open-air top deck come spectacular views of spark plug lighthouses, multimillion-dollar yachts and tall ships moored bow-to-bow. We drift beneath the Claiborne Pell suspension bridge which connects the even wealthier Jamestown. Money might be everything here, but sailing comes a close second.

Back on dry land in the centre of Newport, 400 years of sailing history can be discovered at The Sailing Museum. The interactive exhibit allows visitors to design their own boat and compete in hands-on activities like manually winching grinders and flying over the water in an immersive film dome. Just don’t ask why it has been 40 years since the city last hosted the America’s Cup.

After creating the burgee flag for your own sailing club, there are plenty of other ways to pretend that you have money in this city of leisure.

There is no better place to see out a day in Newport than The Vanderbilt hotel, set two blocks back from Newport Harbor. Once owned by Alfred Gwynne Vanderbilt, the historic downtown mansion is an elegant old world space where you can slink into the secret bar or take in the entire harbour and coastline from the rooftop with a cocktail in hand and a giant pretzel dangling on its own purpose-built metal hanger.

Newport Restaurant Group’s Bar’ Cino has locations in Brookline and Newport's historic Washington Square. The casual eatery dishes up Italian-inspired plates to share, including grilled pizzas, piadina sandwiches, and pastas. Chef Mariana Gonzalez-Trasvina’s taqueria La Vecina operates out of the same building for takeaway-style dining. See:

This hotel overlooking the super yachts and harbour is one of the coolest places to sit down for brunch in Newport. Book ahead on weekends to score a cushy booth in The Living Room and take your pick from avocado toast, pastrami-style smoked salmon or cinnamon oatmeal. At the other end of the day, head to the rooftop for cocktails and a turn on the mini-putt course. See:

From Buffalo-style wings and loaded poutine to Silician bolognese and pork tacos – there is no shortage of choice at this casual bar and grill. There is also plenty of space for large groups between the multi-area dining room, bar and open-air beer garden. See:

Ten minutes from the centre of Newport, this winery estate brings a slice of Napa in Rhode Island. Work your way through the line-up of wines produced in the microclimate of Aquidneck Island or hop-forward beers from Taproot Brewing Co. Casual sharing plates can be enjoyed at the on-site restaurant – inside or right next to the vines. See:

Air New Zealand operates three direct flights to New York from Auckland per week with daily connecting flights to Boston. Newport is a 90-minute drive from Boston. See:

Tickets for The Breakers cost $29 for adults and $10 for children aged 6-12. See: . Scenic cruises on the Coastal Queen start from $32 for 75 minutes. See: . Entry to The Sailing Museum is $18 for adults, $12 for youth aged 11-18 years and free for children 10 and under. See:

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